Before we get started, remember this: owning two quality suits is better than having a closet full of inexpensive, inferior ones. Two good suits can be paired with an almost unlimited combination of shirts and ties to create a varied, year-round wardrobe. Inferior suits—ill fitting and often too trendy—will inevitably collect dust in the back of your closet. What you want is quality and enduring style in a suit, but sometimes that can be hard to hunt down. Don’t worry, that’s why we’re here.

Colors (feeling blue?)

If this is your first suit, your best bet is to purchase a wool, navy one. You’ll get the most use out of it. You can dress it up or down. It’s at home in the office or out to dinner, and the jacket can be worn with a pair of grey or khaki trousers as well. If you’re completely allergic to navy, your next color choice should be charcoal or a light-to-medium grey.

 
If you’re adding a suit to your wardrobe, consider a cotton or linen one for the summer months. Another option is a patterned suit like a herringbone, a Glen check, or a classic pinstripe. Not crazy about patterns? Then look at a black suit. It can be worn with bold tie and shirt combinations to ensure you don’t look like you’re driving a hearse. 

 
Fabrics 101

Unless you live somewhere it’s always hot and humid—like South Florida—wool is the staple you should stock up on. A lightweight wool suit can be worn in any weather, in any season, and can stand up to repeated wearings. When you expand your wardrobe, look at specialized fabrics like cotton or linen that keep you cool when the temperature rises. Looking to stay comfy through the cold winter months? Look to heavier flannels or tweeds.

Feeling unsure? There’s help

When it comes to shopping for clothes, guys are used to helping themselves. You see a sweater or a pair of jeans that you like and then you flip through the stack until you find your size. You don’t even think about talking to a salesperson. Well, put that out of your mind, because buying a suit is a wholly different kind of experience.

When you walk in, look for an associate who’s wearing something you like. Having a similar style is a sign they can easily steer you to a suit you prefer. Another reason you need a salesperson is that suits are traditionally arranged by size, with the jacket and trousers together on large racks or gondolas. Because of this, a salesperson is essential in helping you find what you need. Otherwise you’ll spend hour upon frustrating hour trying to do it yourself. 

Some stores sell suits as “separates,” where the jackets are separated from the trousers. You essentially pick your size of jacket and your size of pants to create your own suit—and you often don’t need a salesperson. “Nested” suits—suits where the jacket and trousers come together—are usually of a higher quality, as the jacket and trousers are made at the same time from the same bolt of cloth. With separates, you can’t always be sure.

As a side note, remember that it’s important to bring with you a well-fitting dress shirt and the pair of dress shoes you intend to wear with the suit. This will help the tailor make better measurements than if you were wearing a T-shirt and high-tops. And if you forget to bring your own, most tailors will have some “loaner” shirts and shoes. If the thought of slipping your feet into a pair of shoes that have welcomed countless numbers of funky feet before yours gives you pause, then we suggest you bring your own.

Meet your new friend, the tailor

When trying on your suit, don’t be afraid to ask the tailor questions. He’s there to ensure your suit fits exactly as it should. Be sure to use the tri-mirror—that funhouse looking thing—to get a glimpse of how your shoulders and back look in your jacket. If you already own a suit that has your ideal fit, consider bringing it with you so the tailor can see firsthand what you consider a great fit. Also, find out if the tailor is going to be doing the alterations himself or is having the work sent out. If you’re having a great deal of work done, it’s preferable that he’s the one doing the work, because he’ll be doing it with your body type in mind.

Finally, never, ever send your wife or girlfriend or best friend to pick up your suit after the alterations have been done. Always try it on again. If further alterations are needed, they can usually be done immediately. This way, you won’t be stuck wearing a suit with an uncomfortable, less-than-perfect fit for that big presentation.

Ronald Ferguson is the concierge for the Brooks Brothers Flagship store in New York City, and regularly conducts wardrobe seminars for Fortune 500 clients, universities and colleges. He collaborates with the Brooks Brothers Corporation on company initiatives such as social purpose, sustainability efforts and the client experience.    

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